Posted by: Neil Hillyard
July 15, 2008
Topic: Motorcycle Trips

We have ridden in the Alps area of Europe for a number of years so we had a pretty good idea of where we wanted to go. We have traced much of the same route and stayed at many of the same hotels for many years. It is because we love the trip, the scenery, the people and the food. This year, we added some new areas and they were worth it.

We planned the trip for months before departure. We left June 19 and returned July 4. We were blessed with good weather the entire trip. We used a Garmin 2610 GPS on each motorcycle. We planned the trip on our computers with MapSource software and downloaded this onto the Garmins. We also did daily programming on the Garmins while on our trip for each day.

We flew to Munich and picked up our motorcycles at Karl Maier BMW just outside Munich. We stayed one night in Munich to get over jetlag. Fun night at the Hofbrauhouse. My wife and I were on an R 1200 RT and Greg and Janine were on a K 1200 GT. Both are good motorcycles for two up. The GT is 3 inches longer than the RT and can make switchbacks a bit more difficult. A note to anyone renting a motorcycle in Europe, make sure you specify you want a top tank in addition to side tanks.

We traveled south into Austria and then back into Germany to the town of Hohenschwangau. There is located a castle built by King Ludwig called Neuschwanstein. This is reported to be the castle from which the castle at Disneyland was modeled. Wonderful dinner in the biergarten. Next morning hotel arranged a tour of the castle.

Rode south back into Austria into the area called Vorelberg. Nice mountain passes in this area. We worked our way west into the country of Liechtenstein. This country is only 15 miles long and has 61 square miles. We didn't have a hotel prearranged and darn near rode clear across the country before finding a hotel. Very unusual-nobody at the hotel spoke English. It was fun trying to communicate.

Next day to the town of Rorschach (of ink blot fame) along a very large lake called Bodensee (see means lake in German). We took the day off from riding and strolled the lakeside and people watched from a local biergarten (beer garden). Beer gardens are simply outdoor terrace tables for food and drink and are almost everywhere.

Next day we headed back into Germany to the Black Forest area. We stayed at a wonderful lakeside hotel at the town of Titisee-Neustadt. (I believe this is the cuckoo clock capital of the world). We stayed at a hotel we have stayed in many times called the Hotel Schwarzwaldhotel Trescher. Great food and wonderful local wine.

Next day headed south to Interlaken, Switzerland. We crossed the Rhine river at the border. With the European Union it seems nobody checks passports at border crossings anymore. If you go into the border station, they will stamp your passport if you wish. We did. Coming into the Interlaken area we crossed a beautiful pass called the Panoramastrasse. As you come down the pass you view the Brienzersee or Lake Brienz which is very picturesque. We rode along the side of this lake to Interlaken. This is where three famous mountain peaks are located, including the Eiger of movie fame. We stayed at Interlaken for two days but rode mountain passes even on our off day. We rode Grimsel Pass and then Furka Pass. Greg and Janine went inside the glacier on Furka. As we have done this for many years, it is very obvious the glacier is melting away rapidly. We continued on and crossed Susten Pass and back to Interlaken for an afternoon boat ride on the lake.

The next day we headed east over Grimsel Pass again, Neufenan Pass, and Gotthard Pass. We then went over the hardest pass in the Alps in my opinion, Spluegen Pass. You go up in Switzerland and come down in Italy. The road is particularly narrow, the switchbacks are tight, and there are many dark, narrow tunnels with a 180 degree turn as you come out. This pass is especially difficult with two up on a motorcycle. Sherry and I had ridden this pass last year and we laid down the motorcycle coming out of a tunnel. This year no problems! I particularly wanted to do this pass after the incident last year. Greg, who had never been over this pass, told me he thought it was the most difficult pass he had ever been over. We stayed in Silvaplana, a little town outside St. Moritz (much cheaper). We stayed at a hotel we have stayed in before, the Hotel Albana. Nice hotel, food, and garage underneath to put your motorcycle.

Next day to Italy. Over Bernina Pass, Forcola Pass, Foscagno Pass, and then over what is considered to be the mother of all passes, Passo Stelvio. This is a major meeting places for motorcycle riders in the Alps. They have great webcams at the top. If you google Stelvio Pass webcam, you get great realtime views of this meeting place. I admit, I look every morning when I turn on my computer. It was a Saturday and there had to be at least 2,000 motorcycles at the top. We had our mandatory Bratwurst and headed down. We stayed by Lake Kaltern south of Bolzano, Italy.

Next day headed for Venice. We took the autobahn all the way south. Venice is not the best place to visit in the summer. It is built on a lagoon and it is extremely hot and humid during the day. We took an evening gondola ride and this was the payoff for the heat during the day. Very nice.

Next day my birthday. Back on the autobahn north back to Bolzano in south Tyrol. This is great wine country. We stayed at one of our favorite hotels, the Hotel Eberle in Bolzano. It is family owned and run and the family has been wonderful to us over the years. The hotel clings to the side of a mountain side overlooking the city and is in the middle of grape vinyards. You must traverse up a winding cobblestone pathway about ten feet wide to get to the hotel, but it is worth it. Fantastic food on their outdoor terrace. In the evening I think the entire town of Bolzano comes here for dinner.

Next day we embarked on what I think was the best day of the trip. We rode our motorcycle out of Bolzano north toward Austria. We crossed my favorite passes, Penserjoch (pass) and Timmelsjoch (pass). The scenery is breathtaking! The valleys are so lush green with flower boxes outside every window of every farm house. Against this is the backdrop of the Dolomites. The air is so fresh and the aromas are captivating as you ride. This is the most beautiful place I have ever been in the world! Austria is fantastic. We rode to the resort town of Seefeld just outside Innsbruck. We stay at the Hotel Hochland. There the front desk is managed by our good friend Frau Rosemarie. As with every place we went the food here is spectacular.

Next day we headed east to Berchtesgaden, Germany. This is just south of Salzberg, Austria. It was Hitler's retreat during WWII. Being interested in WWII history I have been here several times. Hitler's Eagle's Nest is still perched atop a mountain peak providing wonderful views for miles and miles. Greg and Janine had not been here so we went to the Eagle's Nest. Unfortunately, as we arrived, the clouds and rain set in so they could not appreciate the view.

On our last day of motorcycle riding, we rode back to Munich and turned in the motorcycles at the dealer. We hopped a taxi back into the city. We had another fun night in Munich and flew the long flight home the next day.

The views, the food, and the people bring us back to this area again and again. If you are not a motorcycle rider rent a car but get a convertible to enjoy the freshness and smells of the region. If you are a motorcycle rider, it is really the way to go!

Motorcycle ride in the Alps 2008

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